Solukhumbu, This word or district’s name is synonymous with Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world. It is also known widely for being synonymous with Mount Everest. But as it is known as a district of Mt Everest, other destinations inside this district have been overshadowed due to this big name of Mt Everest. Pikey Peak is one such destination. Despite having easy access, this tourist destination in Lower SoluKhumbu is not that well known. This place is usually visited during its peak season to see the beautiful scenery of the highest mountains in the world. But, we get to see a different beauty of this place while traveling in Monsoon.
People do not prefer traveling in monsoon because they believe that it is not the right time to travel. But we believe that there is no right time to travel. The best time to travel is the time when you pack your bags and head out on a journey. This belief of ours has grown stronger by this year’s Pikey Peak Trek. We are happier to see a completely different Pikey Peak.
As we trekked in the monsoon, our journey was not filled with the scenes of snow-capped mountains but was full of fog and moving clouds. was filled with the beautiful colors of Rhododendrons. In our ninth episode of Heaven is Myth Nepal is Real, we embarked on a journey of Rhododendrons and a world filled with fog. Here is what we experienced :
Day 1 : Kathmandu – Okhaldhunga
We planned to end our first-day journey at Patale. To reach there, one has to cross Okhaldhunga via Dhulikhel, Khurkot, and Ghurmi. It is about 240 km from Kathmandu. The journey is not so long and not so short either. Okhaldhunga therefore can be reached in a day but requires a whole day of travel.
After reaching Dhulikhel we stopped for tea and breakfast. After proceeding from Dhulikhel, one gets to travel on a path that passes through a thick green forest distinct from what we see in Kathmandu.
BP Highway is one of the most beautiful highways in Nepal. This 158 km long highway reaches Bardibas via Mulkot and Khurkot. This highway is also known as BP Highway and Banepa Bardibas Highway. After traveling for a while on this narrow yet beautiful blacktop highway, we stopped at Mulkot for our Lunch.
After crossing Mulkot, the road identical to a snake embracing a hill continues towards Khurkot. To reach Okhaldhunga, one has to take the Khurkot Ghurmi Madhya Pahadi Highway. A small introduction to the religious faith of Nepalis can be experienced while crossing the temple of Setidevi Mata with numerous mirrors hanged all over the road walls. Many people who travel on this highway regularly offer a mirror to Setidevi. It is believed that offering mirrors can prevent accidents.
Before reaching Khurkot, some small settlements can be seen on the way, Villages surrounded by vast cornfields. Agriculture is one of the main sources of income for many families living there. Crossing those small settlements filled with corn, we reached the junction where the road to Okhaldhunga is divided from Khurkot.
We need to travel 100 more kilometers from Khurkot to reach Okhaldhunga. The road leading to the district headquarters through Ghurmi was damaged in some places but wasn’t that poor. As it was the month of Baishakh, the temperature was on the rise. The wind was blowing, carrying that heat. But we didn’t complain about the heat because we knew that we would be experiencing the cool breeze of Pikey Peak in just a day. Besides, the scenes of the Dudh Koshi river flowing near us was so beautiful that we didn’t think of complaining.
Crossing the Dudhkoshi Bridge from Ghurmi the road heads towards Okhaldhunga. We can hardly find a Nepali who is unknown to the Okhaldhunga district. Many Nepalis have known Okhaldhunga, reading a poem named My Beloved Okhaldhunga written by Poet Siddhicharan Shrestha in their school-level Textbooks. We were happy that we were about to see something that we have only read in our textbooks. As we reached late that night we couldn’t see the natural beauty of Okhaldhunga, It was lost in the darkness of the Night.
Day 2 : Okhaldhunga – Bhulbhule ( Solukhumbu )
When we woke up, Okhaldhunga was covered with fog. We thought that we would enjoy looking at the views of the hills, but that wish did not come true. Even if you don’t get a chance to see its natural beauty, you get to see the life of Okhaldhunga closely. You get to experience the bustle that starts with the day. Unlike the day that forgets to provide the rays of the sun, the people of Okhaldhunga never forget their daily routines. Even though the sun did not show us its face that morning, a Philosophy of life was peeking at us from the houses of Okhaldhunga.
One has to reach Dhap before reaching Pikey Peak. Dhap is where the road leading to Salleri and Bhulbhule is separated. People also trek to Pikey from Dhap, which is about 20 kilometers away from Okhaldhunga. As we started our journey even without having our breakfast, we decided to stop for lunch on our way. After having tasty food cooked on firewood we moved towards Dhap.
The road to Dhap was covered with fog. Sometimes it used to clear up and sometimes it was all covered up again. The weather wasn’t something that we could easily trust. In any case, the geography was new, and the fragrance spread in the atmosphere was spellbinding which made the journey more exciting. We reached Dhap in about 45 minutes, breaking through a foggy hilly road.
As we were moving towards BhulBhule from Dhap, Fog was still there. We were somehow fighting with the fog. It also started to rainIt is natural for the weather to get cold when it rains. To avoid that cold we decided to stop at Sigane to have noodle soup.
It was still raining when we came out of Sigane to head towards BhulBhule. Until then, we had no idea that a dangerous slippery road was waiting for us. This is one of the main disadvantages of traveling in the monsoon. If you have to tolerate a downpour while traveling on a dirt road, It turns out to be a nightmare. We suffered the same fate that day.
As the bike got stuck in a few places, Our team in the car had to get out and help the rider. It was not an easy job to travel on that slippery road. Of course, if all travel was easy and turn out to go as per plans, then perhaps travel would not be so exciting.
We would experience momentary happiness when the bike and the car got stuck and we took it out, but when we reached a little further, the same thing repeated.
For some time this process repeated. Finally, the vehicle could not move forward due to a slippery slope. We headed towards Bhulbhule with so much enthusiasm but were compelled to return to Sigane as losers.
The weather was not on our side. Water was continuously dripping from the sky so we decided to park our Vehicle at Bhulbhule and find an idea to travel to Bhulbhule. But as it is said where there is a will, there is a way. we found a way to reach Bhulbhule and that way was a Tractor.
Luckily, the rain stopped after we got on the tractor. After a short drive, as the evening wore on, the weather turned better, and in front of us appeared an enchanting geography full of green fields and pine trees.
It was an evening without sunlight. The pieces of clouds hidden behind the fog for the whole day were now dancing in the sky. The geography provided by nature to lower Solukhumbu was artistic. Lost in the world of fog all day long, we suddenly found ourselves in the world of Rhododendrons. That day, nature gave us an answer to the question, why should one travel in the monsoon? Due to the continuous downpour during the day we thought that this trip to Pikey Peak would go in vain. But the beautiful evening we saw at Bhulbhule made us forget that thought. we didn’t even bother about it. We were able to observe a new definition of beauty. What more would we ask for? Happiness is measured not only by being able to see beauty but also by being able to relish it. We were very happy to see Bhulbhule. If there was a device to measure happiness, it would probably say how happy we were.
When we reached Bhulbhu in the evening, the weather was clearer. Due to the fog, we didn’t get a chance to enjoy the beauty in the daytime. So we decided to go on a short evening walk around to see the landscapes. Meanwhile, the hotel owner prepared lunch for us.
Day 3 : Bhulbhule – Pikey Base Camp
Situated on a hill covered with Rhododendrons at Lower Solukhumbu there is a small hotel. This hotel acts as a stopover for people visiting Pikey Peak. People from many countries stay here for a night sharing their experiences under the same roof. This only hotel in this area being physically lonely has helped a lot of people establish new relations. It has also helped countries connect.
Bhulbhule, a place where relationships are born, wakes up to the beautiful colors of Rhododendrons. Seeing it makes every traveler feel like smiling. Just a sight of it can erase the fatigue, sadness, and ill feelings of a person. how can someone define the beauty of such an extraordinary place? The inability to fit into a fixed definition of beauty probably is what defines this place.
It had been raining since morning. We thought that after waiting for a while the water would stop and moving towards Pike Base Camp would be easier. But things didn’t go as planned. So we decided to travel in the rain anyway. The visibility was poor but we somehow managed to move forward. Our team stopped for a while to have tea at a place called Lamuje as the downpour got bigger.
On the way from Lamuje to Pike Base Camp, one has to pass through the forest of Rhododendrons. Walking through the forest colored with red, pink, white, and purple Rhododendrons, we could smell the smell of the forest and the chirping of birds. Accustomed to the pollution of Kathmandu, this new environment became dear to us.
The downpour continued to flow and stop. As we were walking on the fallen leaves, we could hear the breaking of the leaves. The geography was in front of us like a dream scene shown in movies. On the way, a tap for drinking water was made with the help of tree bark. The water was clean and fresher than the water processed in cities using modern technologies.
Talking to two beautiful kids at Chepsa, we rested for a while and started our journey again. After about an hour’s walk from Lamuje, one will reach Chepsa. When Chepsa arrived, the weather improved a bit and the downpour stopped. as we were walking in the rain since morning. A sudden halt to the downpour made it easier to walk.
Despite the rain, the road was not that slippery. Trekkers are usually tired during the trek and dream of reaching their destination as soon as possible. We became different kinds of trekkers that day. Even though our body was tired, the road was so beautiful that we prayed that the road would never end. There was a different kind of joy in seeing the hide and seek of fog, which sometimes runs away and sometimes covers the world around us. Beauty lives not only in clear things but also in unclear things. The foggy weather of Solukhumbu made us believe it.
We had to walk for an hour and a half before reaching Pike Base Camp. There was still a huge uphill to climb. On the way up the hill, we saw a Gumba. We bowed our heads to the gumba and headed uphill.
Just below the hill, there was huge grassland. After reaching there, we decided to stop for a while. There, we captured some memories on our cameras. The fog had not stopped playing hide-and-seek. Even though it was raining and the weather was not clear, the place was very beautiful. When the day is clear and the sun is shining brightly, the place may look even more beautiful. This is what we were thinking when we reached that Grassland.
Finally, after a day without connection, our mobile phone showed a network. So we decided to call our homes. Calling them we informed them about us climbing a hill towards Pikey Base camp. Done with the call, we headed towards Pikey Base Camp.
Before reaching Pike Base Camp, we saw a beautiful rock and stopped to rest there, but we could not stay there for long. As it started to rain, we had to rush to Tungna Baje’s hotel. It took us about 20 minutes to reach Tunna Baje’s Hotel from there.
we had experienced a downpour for the whole day. The warm tea at Tungna Baje Hotel helped us to forget our tiredness.
The rain continued to fall, and the fog continued to show up until evening. We hurried out as soon as the weather got a little clearer. The fog would sometimes fade away and new geography would be seen. But it would again cover all the landscape seen. Even though the weather was not in our favor we were hoping it would clear up the next day.
located at an altitude of about 3700 meters above sea level, Pikey Base camp comprises very few Hotels. As there is no facility for electricity, Solar panels are found to be used for electricity. Due to the limited electricity charging the phones may be a problem. It is better to carry a power bank when one visits this place.
The weather was cold, probably because it was very close to the mountains. We could not stay outside for long due to the cold. We preferred the Hotel rooms to the cold weather outside.
Day 4 : Pikey Base Camp – Pikey Peak – Bhulbhule
In the morning, the weather seemed clearer. The rays of the sun were seen on the distant hills. We thought our dream of capturing the beauty of Pikey Peak on camera would be fulfilled. But the fog again covered everything by the time we finished our breakfast.
The fog was thicker than the previous day while proceeding towards Pikey Peak. Once in a while, we would lose sight of our friends. So we called each other names to ensure they were near us. It was a new place with very poor visibility. We were afraid that we might get lost. The stone steps made on the hill made it easier to find our way to Pikey peak. After traveling for about an hour on a steep uphill path, we finally reached Pikey Peak. The only thing we could see was ourselves and the green field lying beneath us. The rest of the world was hidden behind a thick fog.
Pikey Peak is one such place from where you can see beautiful views of 6 mountain ranges at once. Breathtaking views of the mountain ranges like Kanchenjunga, Makalu, Mahalangur, Gaurishankar, Langtang, and Annapurna can be seen. This place looks like a dream world when the weather is clear. We also set our foot in this place out of greed to see those beautiful Mountain ranges. But we were unaware that the Pikey Trekking route had prepared a gift of Rhododendrons, fog, and rainfall for us.
Touching Kathmandu, Okhaldhunga, and Solukhumbu, three famous districts, we got a chance to see the Pikey Peak Closely. Our ninth episode was lost somewhere in this huge world of fog. Dream of capturing the beautiful view of the mountains, but we did not even get to see a glimpse of the mountains. Walking in the rain all day long, we suffered in a way we never experienced before. But we don’t feel like complaining. We believe that, if we complain, we will be cursed by the beauty of the Rhododendrons blooming on those beautiful hills. The bird singing a song to us sitting on the branch of Rhododendrons will cry remembering our grievances. We will be called unsatisfied souls by the melody Tungna Baje played. The laughter of the people we met on the road will question our insensitive hearts for the rest of our lives. After all, what is there to complain about? How can we say that the tractor drivers who helped us when the car could not go further did not give us anything? How can we say that the journey didn’t turn out as we thought when we met hotel owners who helped us carry our heavy Bags to Pikey Base camp and Back to Bhulbhule. How can we state the cool breeze misery which helped cool our tired bodies during the trek?
Travel does not always turn out the way we expect it to be. If it turns out different we cannot call it a failure. Instead, it is a success but in a different way. We also succeeded on the journey to Pikey Peak Trek differently. Traveling in the monsoon is more difficult than the Seasons. There is no doubt about it. But should we stop traveling just because it is difficult? We don’t care what time and what weather it is. We believe every journey is a blessing. What do you think ?
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